Rooted Ramblings: To prune or not to prune? That is... not the question!
- Master Gardener Volunteers
Story and photos by Al Barber, Portage County Master Gardener Volunteer
Many homeowners do not know when or how to prune— so they don’t. Not pruning is a big mistake. We may think it is wrong to remove healthy growth, but just the opposite is true. If you want to minimize disease and insect pressure during the growing season without pesticides, then proper pruning is a must. But what is proper pruning? Let’s explore the when, why, and how of pruning.
When to Prune: Physiological Considerations
The best time to prune is in late winter and early spring, while plants are dormant and before buds start to swell and open. This is when plants have plenty of stored energy, are ready to grow, and the possibility of freeze damage is lowest.
Avoid pruning in late summer and early fall because new growth is encouraged that cannot mature enough to withstand winter freezes or early fall frost. Pruning in late fall or early winter will keep wounds open until spring, inviting desiccation.
Why prune?
Proper pruning helps keep plants attractive and vigorous and will add years to the plant’s usefulness.
- Prune to maintain plant health. Remove dead, damaged or diseased plant tissue to maintain plant health and vigor. Pruning fruit-bearing plants improves airflow reducing disease damage. Proper pruning also reduces fruit load and improves fruit quality and size.
- Prune to remove misshapen, crowded and rubbing branches and branches with narrow crotch angles
- Prune to increase flowering and fruiting. More lower buds will be formed for the following season if old flowers are removed when they lose their attractiveness, a practice called deadheading.
- Prune to train plants to a particular size or shape, including hedge and espalier forms.
- Prune to rejuvenate old, overgrown shrubs and restore plant density, shape and vigor.
The How: Proper pruning techniques
First, remove all broken, dead and diseased limbs. Next, remove vertical water sprouts and crossover branches or branches that rub together. Cuts should be made just outside the swollen branch collar, which is where wound healing begins. Take care not to damage the bark around the pruning cut. Don’t wiggle pruning tools to cut into a branch too large for the tools. Wrong-sized, incorrect or dull tools will either leave jagged cuts or ruin pruning tools. Never leave a stub. Stubs produce weak stem suckers and provide a place for pests and diseases to attack. Do not paint or tar pruning cuts. Painting is an ineffective practice that does not provide any plant health benefit, interferes with the plant’s own wound defense system, and does not deter insects or diseases.
For more information see the links below:
Picture Perfect Pruning: Tools, Timing and Cuts
Ohio State University Extension Portage County Master Gardener Volunteer program. As OSU Extension Master Gardener Volunteers, our articles will never endorse specific products or companies. Questions/comments/suggestions/want to find out more/become a PCMGV: 330-296-6432 • OSU PCMGV web • portco.mgv.oh@gmail.com • FB PCMGV • PCMGV Speakers Bureau
Master Gardener Volunteers