Varner: Maddalena’s in Kent offers authentic food, at-home feel

Do you remember going to grandma’s house for a family dinner? The way it smelled, the way the adults chatted while you and the other kids laughed in front of a TV playing colorful cartoons. Most importantly, do you remember the food? I remember, and Mandy Yannucci, co-owner of Maddalena’s in Kent, remembers, too. 

“Our hope is to have each of our guests feel at home when they dine at Maddalena’s,” she said. “We wanted to create a warm and inviting space that literally feels like having dinner at an Italian Nonna’s house.” 

All that was missing was a couch to take a nap on after filling myself up with dinner. 

I’m Simon Varner, a chef and writer with a passion for local food. Every month, I’ll take a look inside the kitchens that keep Portage County fed and speak with the people behind the swinging doors. This month, I’m featuring Maddalena’s, which opened in July 2025. Its website promised authentic, from-scratch Italian cooking. I didn’t need much convincing: Who doesn’t love pasta? 

On Wednesday, Nov. 19, I visited Maddalena’s Italian Ristorante.
 
Walking in from South Water Street, there was no need to look up the directions. My nose led the way, discerning the smells of baked tomatoes and garlic from the already great aroma of roasted coffee from Bent Tree and Scribbles just across the street.  

Alongside a group of other hungry and excited Kent residents, including the city’s mayor, I gathered in front of the newly renovated building to watch the ribbon cutting and be welcomed inside. Chef and co-owner Emily Hansford did the honors alongside Yannucci.

Inside, the restaurant felt comfortable and elevated. The walls were fresco-ready white on one half, and the other was a beautiful revealed brick behind the bar. There were plenty of small tables great for conversations and lovely green felt chairs at the bar. We were shown to our seats. 

We started our meals the way many great meals do: with cocktails. I ordered a negroni biancho, which was an unexpected and welcome variation on the classic cocktail. This was made with Malfy Gin Originale, Italicus Rosolio Di Bergamotto and Lillet Blanc, finished with an orange twist and rosemary garnish. Lightly bitter, subtly sweet, delicately herbal, it set the tone for the meal. My wife intended on just ordering a soda because she is pregnant (we are expecting in March!). While they do not have a listed mocktail menu, they were happy to make a drink for her on the fly. We were very impressed when it arrived in a Collins glass, garnished with dried lemon slices. The drink was a fruity lemonade with orange and strawberry and felt just as elegant as any cocktail. It felt thoughtful enough to stand alongside the rest of the meal, which blew us away. 

The appetizers came next: We ordered focaccia and arancini. The focaccia stood tall on the plate, fluffy and glossy. It was served simply, with a small cup of olive oil for dipping. The arancini were deeply satisfying. Fried balls of cheesy risotto, punctuated by the occasional pop of green peas. They were served on top of a homemade tomato sauce: perfect for sopping up with the focaccia. 

Enjoying these dishes, I looked around the room. Nearly every seat was filled, with everyone talking amongst themselves, occasionally even yelling across the bar; to the uninitiated, they could have seemed angry, yet those of us with loud families like myself felt right at home. And when it came to feeling at home, this place nailed it. Behind the bar, the brick wall held bottles of fancy wines, great for celebration. Just above those bottles, a TV quietly played Looney Tunes. 

Everyone was welcome. Wine and cocktails for those who wanted to unwind, and cartoons for kids to feel just as comfy. Paired with the good, well thought-out food and proudly boisterous clientele, I felt transported to a family party at my grandparents’ house. 

The main dishes were the stars of the night. On our server’s recommendation, we ordered the bolognese and a spinach artichoke pizza. The house-made pasta was cooked al dente and was perfect. The bolognese itself was a great description of the night: authentic. It was rich and aromatic, made from slowly cooked beef and pork, with vegetables like onions, celery and carrot. The pizza was just as great. The dough was made in house – nearly everything served there was made from scratch, if you haven’t noticed the trend – and was topped with a garlic white sauce, as well as the spinach and artichokes. 

“I feel that crafting our food from scratch is a must for an Italian restaurant,” Hansford said. “Italian food is made by hand and with love. I want that to come through in every dish.” 

It’s no small feat making from-scratch dishes to order, but she is able to do so thanks to a great team behind her. 

“I’m fortunate enough to have an amazingly talented kitchen staff that shares my passion and have dedicated their lives to this profession, which allows me to put extra time and work into every dish,” she said. 

The dedication was appreciated: dinner was excellent, and the leftovers had me looking forward to lunch the next day. 

Dessert was a perfect cap to the dinner: creamy tiramisu dusted with cocoa powder that tasted of coffee and sweet cream. It was served in a cute teacup, which was yet another reminder of my own grandma. 

While we ate, Andrea Chisnell, Hansford’s wife, came to our table to chat. In fact, she did this with every table, helping to make everyone feel welcome and appreciated. I complimented the look of the place, offering extra love to the pizza oven in the back. She laughed when she told me they actually had a name for “her”: “Izabella Pizzolini.”

After our meal, I spoke a bit more with Yannucci. I wanted to ask her about the “Nonna” mentioned on the website. There, you can find the quote, “make Nonna proud.” 

“I don’t think there is one Nonna that inspired the restaurant, but all of them,” Yannucci said. “We did use my Nonna’s name, Maddalena, for the name of the restaurant, and there are definite touches inside that represent her. We wanted to encompass the feelings everyone associates with their grandmothers. We both drew a lot of inspiration from our grandmothers.” 

Hansford didn’t need to put fresh bolognese on the menu or make her own tomato sauce when canned is cheaper, but that is exactly what she did. That dedication to quality, community and tradition is evident in every detail at Maddalena’s. I hope you will be able to get out to support them soon.