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Rooted Ramblings: Putting your garden to bed for winter

- Master Gardener Volunteers

Written by Jaime Baughman, Portage County Master Gardener Volunteers

Bedtime routines are important. Trust me— I know a little bit about this.  

I have six grandchildren, the oldest of which is four. Bedtime routines are critical— for them, for me and for our gardens.

So, after you’ve reflected on the season and what worked well, and what you might change, it’s time to….

Clean up!  What to do about….

Annuals and Vegetables: They have lived their full life cycle. Once frost has taken its toll, it’s time to pull them out and compost them, if they are healthy.

Most pathogens overwinter in plant debris, which means if you leave diseased plant material in your garden, you are inviting them to come back next year. Diseased produce, plants and any weeds with seed heads should be thrown in the trash. 

Fall Cone Flowers

Perennials: There is no need to cut back most perennials, unless the plants are diseased.  It can also be a matter of taste. Some gardeners like the look of dried plant stalks and seed heads, while others prefer a more manicured look. For more information click here: Cutting Down Perennials in the Fall  

Native plants: Avoid cutting back native plants. Valuable native insects, including those we depend on as pollinators often overwinter or lay eggs in plant stalks.  

Ornamental Grasses: You can let these go as well. In the winter, the windblown movement of their stems can add visual interest in the garden. Plan to cut grasses back in late February or early March before new growth begins.

Tools: Clean off any caked-on mud or dirt. Scrub your tools (and your flowerpots, too) and rinse and dry them thoroughly. For more information click here: Clean and disinfect gardening tools and containers

Prepare for that long winter nap

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Photo by Annie Spratt on Unsplash

Plant those spring bulbs now, if you haven’t already. The best time to plant bulbs is September through October as the bulbs need time to root well before the ground freezes. Spring Flowers

Protect your young trees and shrubs with tree guards or fabric to prevent winter sun scalding and critter damage. And speaking of those young trees and shrubs…

It’s good to have a drink of water 

Trees and shrubs that have been planted or transplanted within the last season need consistent watering throughout the final weeks before the ground completely freezes. Fall watering is especially important for evergreens. For more information click here: Watering Trees and Shrubs in Autumn

Cover up and snuggle in! 

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Photo by Greg Shield on Unsplash

Bare soil is not natural. The lack of mulch exposes plants roots to swings in temperature during the winter. Roots can be killed by cold and short winter warm spells can endanger plants by tricking them into coming out of dormancy too soon. Make sure all soil in perennial beds is covered with a one-to-two-inch layer of mulch. Fallen leaves are an abundant source of free mulch. Rake them onto perennial beds or around trees and shrubs. Leaving a few leaves scattered on your lawn won’t hurt. Leaf litter provides essential food and habitat for many invertebrates, especially in winter, when it offers shelter they may not need in warmer months. Without this insulating layer, many worms, spiders, beetles, bugs, flies, snails, and other invertebrates may not survive a harsh winter.

Enjoy sweet dreams …of the spring, and the garden season to come.  

Putting your garden to bed for the winter is more than about cleaning up, although that’s a big part of it. It’s also about care and protection and planning. Bedtime prayers and storybooks are optional. 


Ohio State University Extension Portage County Master Gardener Volunteer program. As Extension Master Gardener Volunteers, our articles will never endorse specific products or companies. Questions/comments/suggestions/want to find out more/become a PCMGV: 330-296-6432 •  OSU PCMGV web • portco.mgv.oh@gmail.com • FB PCMGV • PCMGV Speaker’s Bureau

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