My name is Simon Varner. I am a chef and writer with a passion for local food. Every month, I’ll take a look inside the kitchens that keep Portage County fed and speak with the people behind the swinging doors. Today, I am highlighting Sonny & Olive’s, the new Italian-American spot opened by Mike Beder in Kent’s South End in March of 2026.
Beder is heavily involved in Kent’s local scene, operating businesses including Water Street Tavern, Venice Cafe and The Lake House Kitchen and Bar, among others. I was very excited to see what he was cooking, as well as dig a bit deeper into the historic building at the center of the venture. Locals will remember the space as the former home of The Battleground, which specialized in traditional Mexican food. When they closed, eaters were eager to know what would take its place. This new concept clicked.
Sonny & Olive’s feels right at home tucked in Kent’s South End and, considering its roots, that makes a lot of sense. The historic district was home to European immigrants who came to work on the local railroads. Roger Di Paolo wrote an excellent article with The Portager about the South End’s history, in which he mentions how it would not have been uncommon to hear Italian spoken throughout.
When I asked Beder about the history of the building at 425 Cherry St., he shared a connection that brought the idea full circle.
“The building we’re in was originally home to Ciccone’s Fine Foods …” he said, noting that it was built in the 1950s. “Some of the photos on the wall were given to us by one of Robert Ciccone’s daughters, Robin, and depict some scenes from inside the bar in the ‘50s and ‘60s, as well as some of their family photos. Sonny & Olive’s just felt like the right fit in that building and neighborhood.”
We walked through the doors after stopping to admire the comfortable outdoor seating (if only the weather were permitting that day) and snapping a picture of the large Tree City mural. When we entered, it felt like a home hosting a cozy dinner party. We were seated at large maroon booths that were as comfy as they looked. The walls were filled with decorations that begged our eyes to linger. On our half were bottles of wine, cookbooks, canned tomatoes and jarred lemons sitting high on shelves. On the other half were vintage ads for Campari and Aperol hanging next to black-and-white family photos. The windows let light peek through black drapes. Beder let me know how much thought went into getting the feeling just right.
“The goal of the space was always to create something familiar and comfortable,” Beder said. “So the decor had to match the menu and vice-versa. Plush, cozy booths, warm lighting and familiar elements of Italian-American restaurants and culture are matched with Italian-American dinner classics like meatballs, rigatoni, veal parmesan, lemon chicken, etc.”
An example of the attention to detail Beder put into the dining room would be the canned tomatoes on the walls I mentioned earlier. Upon closer inspection, the cans sport the Sonny & Olives logo and, not to spoil the ending, the empty cans are used to deliver the bill at the end of the meal. To Beder, exceeding expectations is at the core of all decisions made in the restaurant.
“I was very inspired by Will Guidara’s book ‘Unreasonable Hospitality,’” Beder told me. “Touches like the local bread, salads similar to Luigi’s, complimentary sorbet palate cleanser and the cookies at the end of the meal were inspired by his book. What we are striving for is to give people more than they are expecting and feel like Sonny & Olive’s is someplace they’ve been going their whole lives.”
With Beder’s philosophy in mind, my wife Jill and I were ready to experience those classics firsthand. After spending some time cooking at home, we were eager to hit the road once again and have someone else do the cooking (and the dishes) for a change.
Our first appetizer was a whipped honey and pistachio ricotta dip, served with crackers. Before it reached our table, we were enticed with warm bread and seasoned, herby butter. It was so delicious that we were quickly delivered another loaf by our attentive waitress, alongside our dip. The dip was as good as it sounded: creamy and slightly salty ricotta cheese drizzled with honey and finished with chopped nuts.
We ordered a second appetizer, which was a small plate of spicy rigatoni vodka. For the indecisive, the option to order this pasta dish as a side is a delight. The creamy tomato sauce carried a satisfying spicy kick, which was a great pairing with our rich ricotta dip. The pasta itself was bouncy and made an ideal vessel for the sauce.
A dinner like this calls for great drinks. Jill ordered a Hugo Spritz, an Italian cocktail made with sparkling wine, elderflower liqueur and fresh mint. I ordered the drink I had been waiting for all week: the Caffe Parmigiano. It is a twist on an espresso martini using an espresso liqueur, vodka and cold brew concentrate. It is poured from a nitrogenated tap behind the bar like a stout and topped with freshly grated parmesan cheese. The cheese sits on top like snow; when you take a sip, the first thing you get is the nutty, aged scent of the parm. Following is the bitter and complex taste of the coffee. It was more than worth the wait. The Caffe Parmigiano is a great example of a restaurant exceeding expectations.
Our entrees arrived next. When I spoke with Beder before sitting down, I asked what I should order. He told me that I should always try an Italian restaurant’s pasta, sauce and meatballs. So I took his advice, ordering spaghetti and meatballs alongside an order of sole piccata.
The spaghetti was flavorful and toothsome, and the tomato sauce was bright and summery. Beder let me know that the pasta is made fresh by Top Flight Pasta, who locals in Kent may recognize from the Haymaker Farmers’ Market. The sauce is made from scratch in house. It was served with a massive meatball, split and covered in more parm and sauce. Moving away from pasta for the second entree, the sole piccata was light and delicate and served alongside crispy roasted potatoes and tender broccolini.
The family photos tie everything together nicely. Sitting in the booths surrounded by nostalgic food and decor, including a signed copy of Billy Joel’s “52nd Street” album, feels like I am enjoying time with an old friend: a friend that loves to host and would never let you leave without seconds.
As we paid the bill, our waitress sent us on our way with a couple cookies. We were completely stuffed, but come on: who doesn’t save room for dessert?